Anyone ever rented a uhaul pickup to tow a car to races?

[KeithO]

Being cheap and having been down the road of the aluminum versus steel open trailer choice, here is how it played out for me -

While the weight difference between the 2 isn't huge it can make a difference on the requirements for your tow vehicle.  The place where it could make sense to spend more for an aluminum trailer is when your expected total weight for the trailer (including car, spares, etc. - be honest and realistic here) gets you close to, or exceeds, the towing capacity of your tow vehicle.  If you are near that magic weight, the cost to purchase a 3/4 ton vehicle instead of a 1/2 ton vehicle could tip the scales in favor of an aluminum trailer to keep the total weight in a realistic range for the 1/2 ton tow vehicle.

In my own case, I ended up with a steel, open-bottomed Econotrailer and an inadequate tow vehicle (3/4 ton conversion van) even through the towing capacity should have been adequate.  The van was scary enough that I eventually ended up selling it and buying a 1/2 ton Tahoe, which towed beautifully.

I suppose a second lesson learned is that just because a owner's manual states a given tow capacity, it doesn't make it so in the real world.  I personally believe it comes down to whether the marketing or legal department had final say.  I have owned vehicles that have been over-rated and I currently own a tow vehicle that is seriously under-rated.

[stick947]

From experience an open steel trailer beats an aluminum trailer.  I hear what is being said about lasting long etc., but you can buy from Appalachian trailer, mine was a 16 foot for like 1800 bucks.  You could go through three steels for the price of one aluminum.  However, my next trailer was an owens cargo steel frame enclosed.  I liked the trailer and the deal was right when I bought it.  That said I found a featherlite in Louisville last winter same floor space but a gooseneck the former was a bumper pull.  It was used and I had to do a brake job etc but it was almost even money on a trade but the aluminum differnce in weight is relevant for that big of a trailer.  I got nearly a full 2mpg better on the way home versus the way there.  Granted most of it was highway miles but that was a huge differene and empty I have to keep checking the mirrors and reminding myself that it's back there.  I can agree with Keith in that you need to make sure your tow vehicle is rated and/or properly fitted with tranny coolers etc.  I have seen some very unsafe looking contraptions on the road and at the track and always wonder if they made it home.

[ninetyfourintegra]

Hey, now. I represent that comment.

[Handy Man]

I suppose a second lesson learned is that just because a owner's manual states a given tow capacity, it doesn't make it so in the real world.  I personally believe it comes down to whether the marketing or legal department had final say.  I have owned vehicles that have been over-rated and I currently own a tow vehicle that is seriously under-rated.

Starting w/ the 2013 models, SAE's Surface Vehicle Recommended Practice J2807 will go into effect and all manufactures will have to actually back up their tow ratings with evidence... so hopefully the ratings will be more truthful soon 

[fx-man]

I just brought home my new tow vehicle. Its not your super heavy duty tow vehicle but it will be plenty for what i need it for. Its a new Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.7L V-8. (never had a V-8 before. lol). It has the hightest in class tow rating of 7400lb. I'm pretty excited to finally be able to tow my car. Now for the trailer. I've been looking at Aluminum ones but, they sure are alot more expensive then steel ones. Is it worth it?

But then you lose the whole charm of showing up driving your race car with everything packed inside and proceeding to spank everyone who towed theirs!