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anyone know crown Victoria's very well?

Started by Rev93NA, April 18, 2017, 06:52:38 pm

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After 3 days of fighting, I finally got a jammed bolt out and landed on my next problem. On the front of both lower control arms, on the inboard side, is a bolt that holds the lca on. This bolt has a plate on it, and the stud with the plate, are jammed at the rubber bellows that covers the tie rod end.

Do I really have to disconnect the tie rod end to get these off our is there a trick I haven't figured out?

There's a link to more description and pictures.


Rev93NA, did you try loosening the clamp on the bellows, sliding that out of the way, and then turn the wheel all the way to the right? Might give you enough clearance.
Aaron H.
Director Of Operations  - Pitt Race


Tried that, it left me half an inch short.

Against my better judgement, I'll be unbolting the steering rack for clearance. While it's the preferred method, I just don't like the idea, but I shouldn't have to take it completely off.

My biggest hassle now is finding a good alignment shop near Greensburg. I've been looking for that for a while though.

Masher Manufacturing

Anyone know how to get a hold of this guy? 

I think he is trying to remove lower arm bolts with the spring still in place.  This will lead to the control arm flying out.   The lower control arm is the bottom spring seat and removing bolts without containing the spring will be very dangerous.

As for the bolts being tight, this is usually caused by the bolt becoming rusted into the bushing sleeve.  Be sure to grease the bolt to keep it from rusting again.  In extreme situations or when I'm changing a broken leaf spring, I cut the bushing OD, remove the rubber then split the sleeve along it's seam. 

Unbolting / rebolting the rack won't affect alignment.


April 21, 2017, 10:24:39 pm #4 Last Edit: April 21, 2017, 10:28:47 pm by Rev93NA

If the picture comes through, you'll see what it is. The bolt with the plate on it doesn't clear the steering, an important fact that isn't mentioned anywhere.

The Haynes manual "remove lower control arm, install new arm"

It's not my first time doing this particular job, just first with this car and this particular problem. The original problem, that was resolved after 3 days of wrenches, air tools, lubes, cheater bars, and swearing was a bolt on the back of the arm that jammed missy of the way out, but wouldn't break or go back in either. Lots of whole car shaking on jack stands eventual got it out.



Looking at that picture, are you sure the spring isn't pushing the arm down, cocking the bolt upwards?

I.e. "Pay attention to what Harold said"...


Masher Manufacturing

April 30, 2017, 09:30:46 pm #7 Last Edit: April 30, 2017, 09:33:00 pm by Masher Manufacturing
Does anyone have a way to contact this guy off list and stop him?

We are nearly 10 days out and no new news from our guy,. ..  and he ignored what I had posted.   

I don't see anything constraining the coil spring, our guy is going to get hurt badly once he gets the bolt out.   If the shock is still in place he has a chance of surviving but will still get hurt.

Again, does anyone have a way to contact this guy off list and stop him?